12 décembre 2007

Dualité Somotienne!

Avec le temps, on comprend des nouvelles choses. C’est sûr qu’en arrivant dans un pays, on commence tout d’abord au stade d’observateur et que plus le temps avance, plus on réalise les habitudes, les croyances, et autres subtilités culturelles. Bref, cette fin de semaine j’ai eu droit au sommet d’intégration culturelle et par ça, j’attends bien sûr la dualité culturelle! Je m’explique :

Vendredi, 7 décembre, journée de la Purisime Vierde Marie!

Depuis quelques semaines, la vierge se promenait ici et là dans la ville en s’arrêtant à différents coins de rue avec quelques chaises pour permettre aux habitants de pouvoir aller prier. Ce vendredi, c’était l’apogée de ce « pellerinage », l’après-midi était férié dans tout le pays pour permettre aux croyants(et croyez moi qu’il y en a beaucoup) puissent suivre la vierge dans la ville et prier toute l’après-midi.

Samedi, 8 décembre, apparition de la vierge à Cacauli.

Tout proche d’ici, à environ 30 minutes de marche, il y a un petit village qui s’appelle Cacauli. L’histoire raconte qu’il y a quelques années (décennies?) y est apparu la vierge Marie à un petit garçon, un 8 août. Celle-ci aurait communiqué à cet enfant qu’elle reviendrait maintenant visiter Cacauli tous les 8 de chaque mois. Donc, avec les années, le message c’est transmis, une grosse estrade en béton a été construite et plusieurs personnes venant du Honduras, ou du reste du Nicaragua viennent prier la vierge et attendent l’apparition. Quelques illuminés, sans péché et avec le don de voir la vierge, l’apperçoivent, les autres prient; ils ont encore des péchés à purgés. Le 8 décembre est aussi le jour de la vierge Concepcion, dans la religion catholique. Bref, un samedi, jour de la vierge Concepcion et en plus jour de l’apparition, laissez-moi vous dire que les pélerins c’étaient passé le mot pour venir à Cacauli. Armées de leurs caméras, les 2 valeureuses croyantes, Élise et Véronique, se sont mise en marche à 9h du matin suivant la masse de gens qui empruntait le petit chemin poussièreux. Étonnées de voir tant de monde, les jeunes femmes continuaient leur chemin en rencontrant plusieurs personnes avec de gros bidons d’eau. (Il faut comprendre ici que les Nicaraguayens, malgré la chaleur qui règne dans leur pays, n’ont JAMAIS le réflexe de boire de l’eau, encore moins d’en traîner!) Surprises de voir que les gens sont si prévoyant, elles se disent aussi que ce sera une journée très intense de prière si les gens amènent autant d’eau.

Presque qu’arrivées au site, le Underground Cacauli commence; kiosque après kiosque vendent des chapelets, des images de la vierge, des calendriers de Jésus, des tacos, des liqueurs, etc, etc…. Il y a des gens PARTOUT, c’est presque impossible d’avancer vers le site même car le petit chemin d’environ 2m de large est complètement rempli de gens. Toujours armées de leurs caméras, Véronique et Élise prennent des photos et entre temps, elles ont les yeux grands ouverts époustouflées de voir ce spectacle.

En se frayant un chemin, elles finissent par se rendre à la fameuse estrade qui bien sûr est remplie à débordée et 4X plus de gens sont assis à l’extérieur et écoutent la messe qui est projetée par des hauts-parleurs qui transmettent plus de bruits que de paroles de Dieu! Il y a toujours autant de bidons d’eau et enfin elles comprennent… C’est pour la faire bénir, wow, quelle histoire.
Ne voulant pas partir sans elles-mêmes voir la vierge (car bien sûr elles sont sans péchés!), elles se poussent un chemin à travers la foule et profitant qu’elles sont quand même un peu plus grande que la moyenne des gens, se trouvent un endroit parfait où voir l’apparition. Celle-ci est planifiée à 10h… plus que 5 minutes. Finalement, à 10h pile tout le monde se tait et attend. Attend. Attend. Attend. Rien, toujours rien. Le prêtre explique donc que trop de « nuages » de mauvaise foi traîne sur la foule, les gens ne sont pas prêts à vraiment ouvrir leur cœur à Dieu. Il faut donc continuer à prier. Oups, elles se sentent mal quelques secondes! Finalement, tout le monde se met à chanter et les 2 femmes se disent qu’il serait peut-être bien de les laisser en paix et d’aller explorer le reste du site.

Le reste du site ressemble grandement à tout le reste; les gens entassés qui prient, mangent ou achètent des chapelets. Après 1 heure là-bas et toujours pas de vierge, elles sont tanées d’être dans la poussière, l’odeur de sueur et de vieux lait si caractéritique au Nicaragua et s’en vont. Durant le chemin du retour, elles croisent multitudes de groupe de gens et de pick-up pleins de monde qui s’en vont voir la vierge… La journée n’est vraiment pas finie!

La dualité commence en soirée où la corrida fait place aux prières... et continue le

Dimanche, 8 décembre 2007

COmme à son habitude, dimanche: journée des saouls! C'est vers 7h du matin en m'en allant déjeuner chez Élise que je vois mon premier saoul, déjà... Et bien sûr, comme à leur habitude, les saouls continueront à boire et dormir sur tous les troittoirs de la ville, ou même en plein milieu de la rue si ils ne sont pas capables de se rendre au troittoir!

Ce sur mes chers amis, je vous salue avec un peu de peine car c'est très probablement mon dernier blog. Je pars vendredi soir pour Managua et Ometepe et je ne compte pas aller sur Internet en vacances, à moins d'une histoire extraordinaire à vous conter. Et c'est quand même toujours possible dans ce pays!

DOnc je prends l'avion le 22 au matin, et si vous voulez savoir comment me rejoindre à partir de là, écrivez-moi un courriel!

Je vous embrasse fort et merci de votre fidélité!

Nicaraguayennement vôtre,
Véronique

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